Weston-super-Mare is superThe quintessential English seaside town on a hot summer's day, Weston-super-Mare has is all. Even sea, if you time the tides right. A grand pier, donkeys, slushies and ice cream, fish and chips, the obligatory Ferris wheel; it looks like a picture book. The whole story (once you're there and immersed in it) is that it smells like donkey poo, sounds like screeching gulls and thanks to a bitey wind, feels chilly even as the sun turns pale English skins the brightest neon pink I've ever seen. There's a whole street devoted to tacky arcade games and rows of ancient, crumbling houses scrambling for a view above the beach. Surreal. I don't just feel like I'm in a foreign country, it's as though I've time-travelled and landed in an alternate reality. Awesome and vaguely disturbing at the same time.
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Getting there We caught the train from Bristol. Almost as much fun as the beach itself, lots of stops in cutesy village stations. Took about an hour, cost £8 for an off-peak adult return. Swimming Some people were, but I wouldn't. Warm, coffee-coloured sea complete with froth where the waves lapped onto the shore - and it came with a water quality warning. The estuary has the second highest tidal range in the world so checking where the tide will be is essential if you want to risk a swim. What's with this super thing? Weston is Anglo-Saxon for 'west tun' or 'settlement', super mare is Latin for 'above sea'. |
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Heddon-on-the-Wall
The first time I saw Hadrian's Wall I was grateful to be rugged up and in a car. On a bleak, blustery day, as I watched a group of intrepid enthusiasts tramp alongside it in wet-weather gear, I had one burning question. WHY? I couldn't think of anything I felt less like doing. That was eight years ago.
Today it's a sunny 24 degrees and we're looking to swop the Newcastle Upon Tyne 'burbs for a ramble in the countryside. Walking the wall suddenly has a lot more appeal. Heddon-on-the-Wall is close-ish to where we're staying and the perfect place to start. It boasts the longest unbroken stretch of wall, in its original planned width, still intact. I struggle to grasp just how very old it is, to imagine what this unassuming pile of stone and rubble must have looked like in its heyday. Illustrated info boards either end help with visualising that. Meanwhile, in the here and now, summer is all around us. The sun is shining, wild flowers abound, there's even a horse or two in a nearby field. Epic. |
Getting there We caught a bus from Newcastle. Look for a 684, 685 or 888. Potentially you could walk it if you're in walking mode; it's only about 12 kms, but along busy roads. More fun to sit in a bus of locals, trying to decipher Geordie. The village It's a delight. Old stone cottages made even more picturesque by bright summer flowers and smiley people who greet you like friends. We happened to arrive in time for the tea and scones morning at the womens' institute fund-raiser. The whole village appeared to have turned out for it, a group of riders even drank their tea on horseback. Other than that we came across two pubs, two churches and a convenience store at the service station (which also, conveniently, had a loo). The historical stuff Read all about it here |
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London, the Tardis & TroubadourI don't think we could have been more surprised or pleased to find ourselves outside Earls Court Underground, if we'd actually exited from the Tardis. And here it stands, the last-remaining, original blue police box that doesn't belong to the Doctor Who props department. Directly opposite is the road our hotel is situated on, looking oh-so-London. We can hardly believe that that we've managed to navigate the vast, seemingly chaotic transport system of the UK's largest city - on the eve of a rail strike - and land exactly where we want to be. Continuing the time-travel theme, we discover the Troubadour a couple of blocks away. The what? younger people ask. The Troubadour, another original. A venue for the British folk revival of the late 50's and 60's frequented by musicians before they were famous. Jimmy Hendrix is immortalised in stained glass and there's a shrine to Bob Dylan.
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Getting there We caught a coach from Bristol to London Victoria Coach Station and the Underground to Earls Court. Where we stayed In a little hotel in a little room commanding an out-of-proportion price. A London thing, apparently. But at least it had a window - albeit (you guessed it) a very little one - that overlooked the train tracks. Luckily not too noisy thanks to the rail strike. Other things to be grateful for: it was clean, the staff pleasant and the location awesome. How we got around Not in the Tardis (it's locked, we discovered when we tried to take a peek) or the Underground during the rail strike. By bus, and when those were overcrowded or diverted, by foot. |
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Shambling around YorkThe downside of an old English town as gorgeous as this one, is that it's touristy. Even now, in these covid times, sightseeing Hop on-Hop off buses spill retired couples into cobbled medieval streets and tourist-centric offerings are out in full force. We manage to dodge the Viking Tour, Chocolate Factory Tour, Ghost Trail and yet another Harry Potter-type store to discover some fab little charity shops and ferret out the gem of a little bookstore. The upside is that anywhere you walk there's something that takes your breath away; the view from the walls, the Minster from any angle, York castle on the hill. Food-wise it's fun too; tea and cakes among the roses, any number of pubs and places for dinner.
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Getting there We caught a train from Kings Cross, London. York station was in easy-walking distance of our accommodation, even with a large backpack and wheelie case. Where we stayed In the heart of things, in a self-contained loft room accessed by seven flights of skinny, steep stairs. We loved being in the very centre of town. How we got around We walked and we walked and we walked. Must-dos Find The Shambles, visit the art gallery. |
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Cool LiverpoolLiverpool IS cool. Really. Not just because you can fly into John Lennon Airport and cross the Mersey from Jerry Marsden Ferry Terminal; or that there's a cold wind whipping around the waterfront and up through the streets. Everything about it is a surprise. How much I like it, for starters. And random stuff: two out of three pubs appear to be Irish, Bold Street is buzzing, sometimes the sun shines. . . We find the Cavern Quarter, Beatle-ish and fun even if you're not especially a fan. There's lots of history (of course) and art (who knew), but it's the architecture that most intrigues me. Dark red brick, spires and pointy roofs, such a foreign-looking view from our apartment window. A jumbled juxtaposition of Georgian, Victorian and neo-classic, interspersed with 21st century modern. The city boasts the biggest cathedral in the UK and the biggest Chinese Arch outside of China.
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Getting there We caught a train from Bristol Temple Meads to Lime Street Station - a full day trip involving several changes and long stretches travelling backwards. Where we stayed In a very pleasant apartment in Mount Pleasant Street, convenient to everything. How we got around We walked - a lot - and once took a train from Central Station to Crosby Beach (see our blog: "Another Place") Absolute fave thing The liver bird statues on the Royal Liver Building ('liver' as in 'diver', not the thing you eat with onions) On the to do list for next time Actually cross the Mersey on a ferry, visit Port Sunlight |
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Old Durham TownSince we arrived in Newcastle people have been telling us to go to Durham. Now that we're here, we understand why. It's chocolate-box picturesque in the way that York is, with impossibly old bridges, a castle and cathedral. And like York, it's touristy. Add to that school holidays on a mostly sunny day and there's a lot of people to negotiate. Possibly not quite pre-covid busy though, we notice several 'To Let' signs on empty shops and guess the town is still recovering. We admire the castle from the outside, the cathedral inside and out, the cutesy medieval streets and the flowers. Bucket loads of them. Everywhere. All real and in full, glorious, summertime bloom. Brightening the market square where we eat a takeaway lunch of vinegary, hot chips (yum) and mushy peas (yuk). But my favourite is the River Wear. Walking alongside it on leafy paths, the cathedral and castle towering above us. Then hanging over an ancient bridge watching near collisions as day-trippers with limited rowing skills, attempt to navigate their way around it - and each other.
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Getting there We caught the X21 from Newcastle that took us via Chester-le-street (which is actually a place, not a street) and Pity Me. Yes, really! That's a place too - although, as the name suggests, a rather small and un-special one. A fun trip in front row seats on top of a double decker bus. Travel tip Try to find the old gent in the market square at the Durham Pointers kiosk, handing out free tourist maps along with plenty of advice and (once you get attuned to the accent) a wicked sense of humour. What I would do next time - For a different experience, I'd go by train - Pay the £5 entrance fee to explore the castle - Visit Wharton Park, the views are reported to be spectacular - Climb the stairs to the top of the central tower of the cathedral, again for the alleged views |
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Marsden Bay - South ShieldsI've been looking forward to visiting this beach. We've been told it's something special. And it is. In a yellow, crumbling limestone-cliff type of way. It's the seaside, but not quite as we know it. Like the all UK beaches it feels foreign and surreal to me, the buildings out of place and time. The Marsden Grotto adds to the weirdness of it. A historical cave dwelling blasted out of the foot of the cliffs, now repurposed as a pub and restaurant, with a strange, ugly lift shaft protruding above it. The experience isn't just visual either. I suddenly seem to have recovered from my covid loss-of-smell. First it's the overpowering manure-y smell when we get off the bus in the South Sheilds 'burbs (although there's not a cow or horse in sight). Then the seabird-y smell around the cliffs, home to colonies of cormorants, kittiwakes and gulls. Even inside the Grotto we're not spared. A most unappetising (to us) smell of scampi wafts around and attaches itself to our scones with jam and clotted cream. Once on the coastal paths above the bay the air is fresh and clean, the views spectacular and all is right with this weird, weird world.
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Getting there We took the X34 bus from Newcastle Pilgrim's Street. About a 45 minute trip. The thing to know is where to get off. We didn't and ended up having to walk quite a long way back to the Marsden Inn. Look out for it at the entrance to a traffic circle, with close up views of the sea on your left-hand side - that's your stop! From there it's a short downhill trot to the stairs (72 of them) that take you down to the beach. Essential Check the tides. We didn't but in this instance lucked out because it was really low. At high tide there wouldn't be much beach to walk on and a very real danger of getting trapped against the cliffs. Swimming You probably could. No lifeguard service, but it looks benign and feels it too, when I dipped my toe. I expected to have it frozen by the North Sea but the water felt warmer than any Auckland West Coast beach. |
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Tynemouth - North ShieldsThe minute we arrive we know we've been here before. There's a priory and castle at one end of the street and a spire-y church on the other. The street itself is picture perfect, but different to the way we saw it last. That was was a cold, grey day at the end of May, not a soul in sight. This is a sunny blue-sky one, with coffee shops and pubs spilling holidaymakers onto the pavements while Jubilee bunting flutters above us in the breeze. It feels joyous. There are things to see and do in every direction. We scramble around the edges of castle, taking in the views across the entrance to the River Tyne. Way in the distance we can make out Marsden Bay's craggy cliffs; the foreground is dominated by an enormous monument to Lord Collingwood (nope, we hadn't heard of him either, find out more here). In the other direction there's Tyneside Longsands, an expansive of beach, especially at low tide.
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Getting there A 306 or 308 bus from Haymarket in central Newcastle. You could take the Metro, but rail strikes and temporary closures due to work on the lines made the timetables too confusing for us to navigate. The bus was an easier option and only about a half hour trip. Things to look out for
You can. Even do surf lessons, although we couldn't figure out on what waves. Surfing for ants, maybe. |
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Where is Killhope?On the border of three counties (Durham, Cumbria and Northumberland), almost at the geographic centre of the British Isles, and it feels like the middle of nowhere. We're surprised that people even manage to find Killhope. Yet somehow they do. The parking lot is full and the mine tour operating at ten-punter capacity. With hard hats on our heads and lights hung on lanyards around our necks, we slosh our way underground, ducking from time to time when the roof gets especially low. Lifelike tableaux of miners at work and a great, clonking waterwheel, together with a local guide passionate about the place and its history, all help to make the experience interesting - even to me who has no interest at all in lead mining. Back above ground, feeling cold, damp and desperately sorry for the men who worked in such miserable conditions, I discover something that actually does fascinate me. Spar boxes. The museum houses an excellent collection of them and we spend the rest of the day peering into weird miniature worlds created from crystals, mirrors and lights.
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Getting there You'll need a car for this one. We were told that a bus will stop there by arrangement, although where it comes from or goes to, wasn't clear. Cost Nothing. Entrance, tours, a performance - all are free. Mine Tour deets It's free too. Hard hats and lights are provided, but you'll need to bring your own wellies. What nobody mentioned until there was no turning back, is that wet weather gear would also be useful. It's drippy underground and in places mini waterfalls rain down on you. Cafe and Picnics There's a cosy cafe with comfort food at good prices and outdoor seating if the weather permits (it didn't when we were there). Or bring your own picnic and find a spot in the grounds to enjoy it. Look out for red squirrels (we saw two) and bunnies. |
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Edinburgh in a dayEdinburgh for the day, sounds kind of hectic - and it is! Especially this particular day. We're here for a taste of the Fringe but initially it's the place that grabs our attention. The buildings adorned with turret-y things, some Gothic-looking, some Georgian, all full of ghosts even in this bright summer sunshine. Add to that the buzz of a festival and the 2022 Royal Military Tattoo about to begin, and it's almost overwhelming.
Cobbled streets throng with tourists and leaflet-touting performers selling shows. There are tartans, kilts and bagpipes; there's a castle of course, and many, many flights of very steep stairs. Way too much to take in but more than enough to get a feel for it. We stagger down to the station in the evening, worn out but happy to have experienced all things Scottish in a single time and place - and done double gym to boot. |
Getting there We caught the train from Newcastle upon Tyne and back again, same day return, an hour and a half each way. What we saw - the shows Two extremes. A young comedienne, obviously her first outing at the Fringe, and a seasoned circus ensemble from Quebec. Both very brave performances. What we saw - the sights
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Bristol like a touristWe've been based in Bristol for two and a half months and this is the first time we feel like tourists. It starts with a 5.00am train ride to Clifton Observatory, the perfect viewpoint to watch a mass ascent of hot air balloons. Then it's a walk across the suspension bridge over the Bristol Avon, down into the grounds of Ashton Court Estate. 'A river runs through it' is the theme for the day. Back in the city we keep returning to the river, looking for relief from the 33° heat. We detour past a Banksy in Frogmore Street on our way to the Bristol Museum and Art Gallery, but before long we're at the water again, brunching in a riverside cafe and relishing the shade. After wandering around M Shed, we catch a ferry from Wapping Wharf to Temple Quay (next to Temple Meads station) combining site-seeing with commuting. Bristol sizzles.
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All things touristy in Bristol Links to what we saw in a single, very hot morning:
The view of the Ferris wheel. Not exactly a picture postcard but for me, so very Bristol. |
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Walking Bristol to BathIt's a coolish, sunny day in late summer, ideal conditions for walking the Bristol & Bath cycle path. Our nearest access is from Easton where the route marker tells us it's only 14½ miles to Bath. We have hats, we have sunscreen, water bottles and spare shoes, something long-sleeved just in case. Fully prepared and utterly confident, off we go, through tunnels of flickering tree light and brick tunnels where trains used to run. The way is flat, tar-sealed and easy-going; the old track bed of the Midlands Railway, which closed in the late '60's and was converted by Sustains to a cycle trail in the early '80's. Initially bicycles keep us on our toes, whizzing or wobbling (depending on who is riding them) up from behind, causing us to cling to the sides and hope for the best. Around the midway mark at Walmley station, it dawns on us. Miles and kilometres are not the same thing. Staying on our toes without wobbling is becoming increasingly difficult, by Bitton hope is failing fast. Our info says the walk takes 4½ hours, it's more like six when we hobble into Bath. Longer than a half marathon with no training prep whatsoever. When my feet stop hurting I'm going to feel really impressed with myself.
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Info, history and route maps Bristol & Bath Railway Path Where to find food and loos
The length of the cycle path varies with the source - anything from 13 to 15 miles - and the markers on the route contradict themselves. Suffice to say, on foot it's a long, long way. |
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Where is Hambrook?If a place has your name and that place is close by, you should visit it, right? Hambrook is a village, so Google says, not too far from where we're based in Bristol. It's a grey day and we have no plans, it seems like a good time to check it out. We decide, emboldened by our epic Bristol to Bath escapade, to walk. Luckily, as it turns out. Today it's the journey, not the destination that counts. The way through Eastville Park past the lake and along the Frome River is a wonderful discovery, a woodland oasis amid an urban tangle of motorway under-passes and squished-together houses. Beyond that the road we need to take is busy, but makes up for it by showing us places along the way (like Elm Tree Farm) which almost entice us to detour from our mission. Further on it's the views that stop us in our tracks, like the one of the strange yellow castle on the hill. By the time we get to Hambrook we're in the country - and there's nothing here. Just some road signs, a hall for hire and a few stately manors hiding behind high walls. Nothing to see or do. Feeling a little let-down we walk along Hambrook Lane to catch a train back.
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Getting there Without a car it's confusing.
Bits we missed An after-the-event search on Google maps turned up a whole area of Hambrook that we didn't see. A primary school, a village green flanked by cottages apparently, and the White Horse, an inviting-looking restaurant/pub. Not sure it's enough to encourage us back to try again though. |
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Going to GlastonburyI'm talking about Glastonbury the village, not the festival. Buses run regularly from Bristol. It's a bit of a ticky tour along narrow country lanes and through quaint villages, stopping often until we're finally grind to a halt in Wells. Here we're unceremoniously dumped at the bus station, mystified, still more than five miles from our destination. Turns out there's a shortage of drivers. Eventually the next bus from Bristol trundles along, picks us up and takes us the rest of the way. Mostly we don't mind. It's a beautiful sunshiny day and the countryside from front row seats at the top of a double decker is a delight; bright green and sparkly, summer's last hurrah. Glastonbury is even more hippyish than I remember, almost too much hippie for me who is known for my hippiness. But the Tuesday markets are on, vegan food abounds and the 360° view from the Tor is breathtaking. I don't need crystals or a tarot card reading to know all is well in my world.
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Getting there There's no train line. If you don't go by car or bike, buses are the only option - even if they do abandon you without explanation at Wells. You need to catch a First Bus (number 376) from Temple Way or outside Bristol Temple Meads Station, it takes about one hour forty (provided you aren't abandoned) and costs around £7 return. Is it worth the hike? For us, yes. Both the convoluted bus ride and the hike up the hill to the Tor. Other things I enjoyed:
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Mina Road, BristolMina Road is leafy, edgy, defiant. It's also colourful, full of character and a canvas for street art. We followed Mina Road Park through the arc of the seasons, from bright spring green to summer dry-grass-yellow to autumn gold. And we followed the road itself down passed the medieval St Werburghs Church (now repurposed as a climbing academy) under the railway bridge to St Werburg's City Farm. I love that it defies city norms, linking an inclusive, out-spoken community with paddocks of sheep, goats, chickens and the craziest topiary ever of a giant pig. A road through a brave new world.
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Location Mina Road runs through the St Werburghs area of north-east central Bristol, from the M32 off-ramp to the city farm and allotments. Links |
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