Day 10 - McGregor to Hermanus
DISTANCE: 331 kms On the Road The direct route between McGregor and Hermanus is only 145 kms. We did more than double that, backtracking to Swellendam (encountering a police check on the outskirts) then detouring to Cape Agulhas via Bredesdorp. Somewhere near Napier we clocked 3000 kms. Pockets of green hills and iconic Cape Dutch architecture sign that we're leaving the desert and approaching the last Big City at the bottom of the African continent.
End of the Road Cape Agulhas Now we really have reached the end of the road and the edge of the world. The southernmost tip of Africa is an unexpectedly docile affair. It's notorious for the wild, stormy meeting of the mighty oceans, but today you'd never know it. Just a soft breeze cooling a sunshiney day. Not sure whether to be relived or disappointed. A bucket list tick.  Overnighted at: Onrus Caravan Park Located: Near Hermanus. How we found it: Signposted on the road. Road Access: Tar-sealed and good. This is almost the 'burbs. Amenities: Extensive municipal park with a choice of sand and grassy sites, spacious and shady. Impressive large, clean ablutions with security key, entire park fenced, South Africa style. Cost: NZD28 / ZAR280 for two adults  Our experience A good enough one. Enough space for privacy, enough fellow campers scattered around to feel safe and enough sand to know that we're at beach. We slept well. Soundtrack: Sound of the surf breaking on rocks, very distant campers ya-hooing, groups of workmen starting campground maintenance at 9.00 am. Highlight: The freedom of being in a big cage, ie. sleeping easy. Lowlight: The limitations of being in a big cage, ie. looking at the sunset from behind razor wire fencing, unable to walk on the beach and immerse yourself in it. Lessons Learnt:
Day 9 - Oudtshoorn to McGregor
DISTANCE: 330 kms On the Road Mostly hot, dusty desert. Encountered some roadworks, fortunately on a scenic part of the road. We don't mind the inconvenience. We're not in any hurry, and the fact that maintenance is being carried out is heartening.
Pit Stops Three actually, between here and there. All good. Oudtshoorn - Coffee Bean Cafe The excellent flat white, friendly owner and wifi access went a long way to improving our mood. Calitzdorp - Roses Cafe Tea and melktert in a dappled shade garden in the middle of the desert. What a treat! You don't get more Saf-African than this. Who needs wifi anyway? Barrydale - Sunshine Cafe Situated in The Hub. Wifi back on the menu along with bakbrood topped with cheese, pesto and Dutch yogurt. Yum.
Top left: Coffee Bean Cafe, Oudtshoorn Bottom left: Sunshine Cafe, Barryvale Top & Bottom right: Roses Cafe, Calitzdorp End of the Road McGregor Well, not the end of the road exactly, but the end of our travels for the day. Love McGregor. Authentic, not too trendied for tourism. I'm tempted to say that it's in the middle of nowhere - which it is - but this could only be Africa and only be the Klein Karoo. There's a strong sense of place in this nowhere. I could almost live here. 
 Overnighted at: Night Sky Caravan Farm Located: On a wine farm somewhere between McGregor and Bonnievale in the Breede River Valley. How we found it: With “Camp and Caravan” and some difficulty. Road Access: Gravelly but ok. Amenities: Un-demarcated, flat, grassy sites suitable for tents and caravans on the banks of a dam; ablutions basic but clean with hot water showers, power outlets (bring an extension cord), taps although the water unsuitable for drinking, braai facilities. Cost: Free! A special deal for us because we arrived late and unexpectedly and the host hadn't time to specially clean the ablutions (which were spotless).  Our experience The universe decided to say sorry for the horrible night before. Things couldn't have been more different. We found ourselves the only campers in a peaceful wine farm setting, free to choose our spot next to a pretty dam. After a long day driving through desert, water is a wonderful thing. Our hostess was gracious and welcoming, even though she was dressed up and on her way out, which is why she declined payment (see 'Cost' story above). Soundtrack: Bird calls and frogs. Highlight: The glorious night sky. Lowlight: There wasn't one. Lessons Learnt:
Day 8 - Prince Albert to Oudtshoorn
DISTANCE: 275 kms Prince Albert - around the village It's one of those trendy, reinvented-for-tourism, Karoo towns with lots to do and see. Pop into the info centre (although you might want to double-check any directions given), browse little art galleries and gift stores and do the historical ox-wagon, old churches thing. Mostly we enjoyed the architecture and the back streets where the village meets the Karoo - the visual aspect of it. We couldn't help but notice the contrast between these neatly restored houses with well swept yards and the "location" just outside of town. Pit Stops Prince Albert - The Lazy Lizard Lots of spaces here to enjoy a morning coffee: a shady garden, an eclectically furnished inside area and a stoep from which to watch the world go by. Free wifi is an additional bonus.  Detour An unplanned detour as a result of misunderstanding the directions provided by the lady at Prince Albert Info Centre meant we were about 50 kms down the road at Prins Albertweg, before we realised we were headed in completely the wrong direction. Backtracking through some of the driest, hottest, emptiest Karoo landscape you're likely to find caused some grumpiness.
On the Road Finally on the right road, the low road through the Swartberg mountains, headed back towards Oudtshoorn. Tar sealed and less tummy-clutching than the pass of the day before, but a stunning ride nonetheless. Came across several enticing picnic stops on the way.  Cango Caves The caves were the reason why we backtracked, and the resulting bucket list place meets the anti-tourist experience was not a good one. I was amazed, appalled, amused and appalled again. Saddened to see such a precious natural phenomenon irrevocably damaged and disrespected by tourism. Yes, it's cheap (ZAR100 / NZD10 entry), enchantingly beautiful and extensive; and yes, at times it was very funny (albeit unintentionally) thanks to the bizarre commentary and the way the large group of visitors were divided into nationalities (Germans, Israelis and English-speaking Indians). But no, if like me you have anti tourist tendencies, don't go. A bucket list tick and fail.
 Overnighted at: Kleinplas Located: The outskirts of Oudtshoorn. How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” Road Access: Good. Amenities: Spacious, flat, shaded sites with power and water, resort-style facililties with large ablutions and swimming pool. Cost: NZD18 / ZAR180 for two adults  Our experience We were unlucky. I'm guessing that usually camping here would be fine. The shaded, level sites are nice enough and this is part of a large resort with all the associated amenities. Unfortunately our stay coincided with a badly behaved and managed Nomads Tour group that partied up a storm until the early hours of the morning. They proceeded to trash the toilets while they were at it, making it a very unpleasant experience for the other campers. To add insult to injury, at check out the staff gave us excuses rather than apologies, and Kleinplas earned my first-ever one star "terrible" TripAdvisor review. Soundtrack: Traffic. A busy main road runs alongside the resort and if we weren't already awake at 2.00am (thanks to drunken foreign tourists), we would have been after some crazy person drove the length of the resort, hand on hooter. Highlight: There wasn't one. Lowlight: Noisy night and unusable ablutions the next morning. Lessons Learnt:
Day 7 - Sedgefield to Prince Albert
DISTANCE: 202 kms Pit Stops Sedgefield This coffee stop had it all. The forever beach in the cool of the morning was a delight, even though there were no whales to be seen. Over the road from the parking area, Africa Vibe provided good coffee, free wifi and friendly locals. A great start to a great day. 
On the Road The Garden Route delivered on its reputation with a wonderfully scenic drive on a stunning blue-sky day. The Wilderness was a particular standout, incredibly beautiful despite bustling with holidaymakers. At George we headed inland through the Outeniqua Pass towards Oudtshoorn and in no time at all swapped lush greens for Karoo browns, amazed at how quickly the landscape and climate changes.
Short-cuts The Swartberg Pass We arrived at the Cango Caves too late to join the last tour of the day. Deciding we really didn't feel like backtracking to Oudtshoorn, we thought we would try for Prins Albert - which on the map didn't look too far if we travelled over the Swartberg Pass. The info lady assured us that the road, although gravel, was good. By the time we began to doubt the wisdom of our choice we had passed the point of no return. A spectacular, and at times, terrifying drive. If we had known what we were in for I'm not sure we would have had the courage to do it. So glad we did. 
 Overnighted at: Olienhof Camp Site Located: On an olive farm on the outskirts of Prince Albert. How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” Road Access: Some dirt roads. Amenities: Cape Dutch cottage-style bathroom, roomy and decorated like a home rather than a camp ablution; braais and power on site. Cost: NZD16 / ZAR160 for two adults  Our experience The camping area at Olienhof farm is small with only 5 to 6 sites. An elderly couple was there already set up in a large, multi-roomed tent and a younger couple arrived after us in a 4 x 4 safari camper with a fold-out tent on the roof. Although an intimate space, we still had privacy and we placed our tent for shade and a view of the olive grove. The owners were very friendly and helpful, it felt like a farm experience, quite different to a conventional campground. Soundtrack: Birds, five hungry cats, sporadic hammering, tractors driving around, digging, mowing etc in the morning (its a working farm). Highlight: Finding this haven at the end of an incredibly hot day (40+ degrees), stopping off at the olive factory the following morning and buying tins of olive oil produced on the farm as gifts. Lowlight: Huge mosquitoes hanging out in the shower curtains. Lessons Learnt:
Day 6 - Bloukrans to Sedgefield
DISTANCE: 147 kms Pit Stops Morning Coffee - Bloukrans Bridge Yesterday's slow reveal continued this morning when, on a whim, we went to see where the traffic that kept driving passed the Bloukrans campsite was headed. We were amazed to discover a bustling hub of cafes, tourists, souvenir sellers and bungee jumpers milling around in various states of fear and elation. We drank our morning coffee overlooking the Bloukrans Bridge and the world’s highest bungee jump, in the company of Somangaye-tnh from Empangeni. At five years old he was too young to jump himself and had to be content with borrowing our binoculars to watch his parents launch themselves into the abyss. A most surprising start to the day.  Lunch - Leisure Isle, Knysna A nostalgia trip for me. Leisure Isle in Knysna where my grandfather lived many, many years ago. Picnicked at the Steenbok Nature Reserve.  Afternoon Coffee - Riverside Bar, Restaurant & Padstal We drove into Buffalo Bay, which although interesting, was too exposed and windy for camping. On the way back to the N1 we stopped off for a coffee at the Riverside Bar and Restaurant, very enticing on a sparkling, sunshiney afternoon. Stocked up on a few treats at the padstal across the road.
On the road Battled traffic into Plettenberg Bay, searching for the holiday destination of my childhood but found only glimpses.
Knysna Heads impressed with its vertigo views.
 Overnighted at: Lake Pleasant Resort Located: Near Sedgefield. How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” Road Access: Good. Amenities: Excellent. Large campsites designed for privacy; extensive, homely ablutions including baths, showers and a multitude of mirrors; restaurant (no wifi), small shop. Cost: NZD22 /ZAR220 for two adults  Our experience After being soaked with dew the night before, we decided to rig a tarpaulin over the tent. Totally unnecessarily, as it turned out, as it was dry and much warmer and we slept well. Completely different demographic to where we had just been: well-heeled, mostly older patrons with caravans and boats in tow. Soundtrack: Distant traffic, birds, onsite Sunday morning church service conducted in Afrikaans by a group of campers using a feisty sound system, accompanied by much hymn singing. Highlight: The sheltered, nature reserve setting and glorious weather. Lowlight: Being chased by dogs belonging to fellow campers who were well aware of what was happening but refused to restrain them - even though we hadn’t ventured anywhere near their campsite; afore mentioned church service. Lessons Learnt:
Day 5 - Addo Elephant Park to Bloukrans
DISTANCE: 260 kms On the Road A changing landscape. Saw plenty of animals on our trip through the Addo Elephant Park, as well as our first glimpses of the sea. Port Elizabeth was an overwhelming experience after a couple of days in the bush and Jeffries Bay an underwhelming one, nothing like Keith remembered. The garden route with its lush green mountains a stark contrast to fynbos and the Karoo.
 Overnighted at: Bloukrans Caravan Park Located: Tsitsikamma area on the Garden Route. How we found it: Sign on the side of N2 Highway. Road Access: Good. Amenities: Campsites with power and braais; huge, high ceilinged ablutions, great showers, free condoms in both male and female bathrooms. Cost: NZD14 / ZAR140 for two adults  Our experience “Slow reveal” best describes this experience. We didn’t know anything about where we were staying. When we first arrived the camp ground was deserted and we felt a little uneasy. Then suddenly it was full of Xhosian youth laughing and playing as they carried in mattresses and pitched tents. The condoms in the ablutions, coupled with a receipt for camp fees from the Tisitikamma Forest Village Trust, helped us to figure out it was some sort of community project. It’s a spacious, well-manicured caravan park with large, level sites, and sharing it with a group of youth was a pleasure rather than an invasion. Soundtrack: Traffic. Youth group playing until it got dark, then absolute silence. Boot camp at dawn, supervisor yelling instructions (Rise and Shine! Get running!) Singing. Highlight: Not being the ones who had to get up and get running! Great to support a local community tourism initiative. Lowlight: A really COLD night with heavy dewfall. Wore all our warm stuff all at once and still shivered. Lessons Learnt:
Day 4 - Somerset East to Addo Elephant Park
On the road It wasn’t a conscious decision to visit the Addo Elephant Park, the need for coffee drove us to it. Unable to boil water at Die Kaie we went in search of Keith’s morning fix, detouring through Riebeeck East and Alicedale, neither of which had a coffee shop. We guessed we would find a restaurant in the park, and once there we couldn’t resist staying the night. Addo Elephant Park There are both tarred and sand roads in the Addo Elephant Park, and our little car coped fine with the latter. We saw kudu, warthogs and tortoises with uncanny regularity, black backed jackals and of course, elephants. Fascinated by the fynbos, sometimes so dense it’s a wonder animals manage to make their way through it. Our game park experiences usually centre around the Transvaal bushveld, this vegetation is quite different. 
 Overnighted at: Addo Restcamp Located: Addo Elephant Park How we found it: AA Map of South Africa and SANParks website. Road Access: Good. Amenities: Usual National Parks stuff: good ablutions, camp kitchen, powered campsite with braai, bench and table; restaurant (with wifi), shop. Cost: NZD80 / ZAR800 for two adults (including conservation fees for international tourists)  Our experience Loved being in the bush again. When we weren’t driving around looking for animals, we watched them from the comfort of our newly acquired camp chairs. Addo Restcamp overlooks a waterhole and we saw kudu, warthogs, tortoises and elephants at various times during the day. Evening soundtrack: Hyhenas, elephants, annoying tour group yammering into the night. Highlight: Sundowners in the bush while watching a family of elephants wandering along the ridge. Lowlight: Annoying tour group yammering into the night, strong winds buffeting the tent. Lessons Learnt:
Day 3 - Gariep Dam to Somerset East
DISTANCE: 320 kms Pit Stops Hanover is almost exactly halfway between Johannesburg and Cape Town on the N1. We stopped off at the Hanover Hotel for a cup of coffee and some wifi, both surprisingly good given the remoteness of the location. It’s one of those tiny Karoo towns with the potential to become trendy but has yet to be discovered. We went looking for a family member’s piece of land, our only clue being that it had goats on it. Despite the smallness of the place, we couldn’t find it. 
On the Road An erratic, zig-zaggy sort of a day. Made up for not finding goats in Hanover by coming across herds in main street of Middelburg (where we stopped to pick up supplies and found camping chairs). We encountered roadworks with lengthy stop-and-go sojourns between Hanover and Middelburg, potholes and roadworks between Graaf-Reniet and Somerset East.  Detours Nieu-Bethesda This was the bucket-list place for me and while I wasn’t disappointed, I didn’t feel as though I wanted to overnight there. It was very quiet, obviously not tourist season. Unseasonably too, we seemed to have brought rain with us which blew through the town at one point, dampening the dust. We stopped at Village Inn and had the best scone ever, I think it was baked while we waited. It’s worth noting that you can now get to Nieu-Bethesda from the N9 on a newly tarred road, which we only discovered on our way out. We travelled in on a dirt road, scenic and accessible, but uncomfortable at times in our little car. 
 Overnighted at: Die Kaie Located: On a farm outside Somerset East. How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” and by ringing the owners. No road signage and the coordinates given in the book are inaccurate. Directions: Turn onto the R335 just outside Somerset East. Drive passed the graveyard and an airfield, the farm gate is on the left hand side. Road Access: Bumpy dirt road. Amenities: Ablutions good albeit a little sooty from a recent fire in the thatch roof, attractive restaurant/bar area overlooking the Small Fish River. Cost: NZD16 / ZAR160 for two adults  Our experience It was late and we were starting to panic by the time we finally found the campsite. There was nobody around and we checked in by remote control, the owner talking us through various procedures on the phone (ie. camp anywhere, use only the ladies ablutions because of the fire, leave payment in the guestbook, the dog’s name is Bubbles…) Our spirits rose when we saw how pretty it was, an oasis of verdant bush on the banks of a little river. What it lacked in humans it more than made up for with animals. There was an aviary with exotic talking parrots and a family of guinea fowls roosting on top if it, bunnies hopping around, a super-friendly dog, sheep in the distance (it’s a sheep farm) and buck coming down to the river for their evening drink. A bizarre experience - in a good way. It felt like we’d fallen into a storybook. Evening soundtrack: frogs, crickets, night birds, things plopping in water, occasional sheep baa-ing, caged macaw screeching “hello”, Bubbles barking. Highlight: So many: the relief at finding a place to stay, the oh-so-pretty location, the oddness of the whole experience, Bubbles the dog… most magical of all, the fireflies that danced around our tent when it got dark. Lowlight: The tent flapping all night. No access to electricity (although there was some, we just couldn’t turn it on) which meant no morning coffee. Lessons Learnt:
Day 2 - Parys to Gariep Dam
DISTANCE: 734 kms On the Road A long distance travel day that found us still 1000kms from Cape Town at the end of it. The road from Vredeport through Kroonstad and beyond is under construction, with bumpy dirt road detours, stop and go sections and speed restrictions. Once on the N1 the travelling is easier.
Pit Stops Plum Tree Cafe - main street of Parys Parys has trendied up, one of those small towns in the middle of nowhere that has reinvented itself as a tourist destination. It’s vintage in an Afrikaans/Africa sort of a way, lots of antiques, broekie lace and homemade rusks. The mediocre morning coffee (ugly bubbles in the foam of my cappuccino) was rescued by the highly original presentation and served with the December 1974 Edition 51 of Huisgenoot magazine, complete with Anneline Kriel on the cover. Worth stopping for that alone. 
 Overnighted at: Forever Resort Located: Gariep Dam How we found it: We camped at the dam thirty something years ago, although it wasn’t owned by Forever Resorts then. “Camp & Caravan” confirmed that it was still operating. Road access: Good. Amenities: Awesome. Individual ablutions per campsite (kitchen, toilet, bath), braais and power. Restaurant at the resort, shops and a petrol station nearby. Cost: NZD22 / ZAR220 for two adults (pensioner’s discount!)  Our experience It felt strangely familiar - not much has changed in the camping area since we came through with our windsurfers en route to Hogsback and East London more than three decades ago. Slightly surreal to see boat masts and an expanse of muddy-coloured water in what is basically the Karoo. Much warmer and dryer than our night at the Vaal and we had no security worries. Slept well. Soundtrack: Birds, occasional helicopters and distant road traffic. Highlight: Our own private, lockable kitchen and ensuite. Lowlight: There wasn't one. Lessons Learnt:
Day 1 - Johannesburg to Parys
DISTANCE: 190kms On the Road Trying to find the campsite involved crossing the Vaal River several times and approaching Parys from multiple directions. Just as we were in danger of losing our sense of humour we spotted this man and his dog in the traffic.   Overnighted at: Woelwaters Located: 35kms outside of Parys on the Vaal River. How we found it: “Camp & Caravan” with a little help from the Parys Info Centre. Road access: Ok. Tar sealed, some potholes. Amenities: Ablutions clean enough (OTT crochet curtains a standout feature), braais and power on site. Cost: NZD18 / ZAR180 for two adults  Our Experience The first night camping in almost a year. It took a while to get reacquainted with our tent and figure out how to put it up. We were a little edgy about security, especially as initially we were the only people there, but as it turned out it was fine. We had our choice of level campsites and later a couple arrived to stay at one of the nearby cottages. A cold and dew-drippy night, didn’t sleep too well. Soundtrack: River running, frogs, crickets, water birds, neighbour leaving to go who-knows-where (fishing?) revving his engine at 4.00am. Highlight: Meerkats popping up in the putt-putt course. Lowlight: Smell of decaying vegetation as a result of the recent flooding, flies. Lessons Learnt:
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