On the Road
One final push and we'll be back where we started. We skirt Bloemfontein, refuel in Kroonstad, but other than that, it's only the occasional toll booth that slows us down. The skyscape is the hero in this flat, featureless land. We cross the Vaal River and the road starts to undulate a little, outlying 'burbs begin to spill into the dips. As the city creeps closer the traffic increases and buildings smudge the skyline. We swap national roads for motorway, and our focus turns to deciphering signage and choosing the right off ramps. When mine dumps appear we know the trip is almost over. This is Jo'burg, it couldn't be anywhere else in the world. We've come full circle. We're home. 

<< Day 15     Back to intro

Pit Stop
Karoo National Park Restaurant & Shop
The style of architecture, decor in the restaurant, souvenir offerings in the gift shop - they're all Karoo designery and kind of muted. Even the mood is muted. The animal sightings board shows recent lion and other exciting encounters, but we don't see any game at all on our journey out of the park.

On the Road
A long, hot day's driving and we find ourselves surrounded by a thickening haze that we can't identify. A dust storm? Smoke from a veld fire? We come across a little town hidden in the middle of it and stop to refuel and buy cold water. When we ask the store attendant what is happening, he explains that it's just hotness and dryness, a heat haze. Apparently it hasn't rained here - not a drop - for over five years.

Kimberley
Another of those days where things don't go to plan, then turn out better than you could have imagined. We've never been to Kimberley, never wanted to go, and now that we're here, we don't want to stay. It's too late in the day to see the Big Hole and only campsite in town is unmanned and looks like it's morphing into a squatter camp. It's a long way to anywhere else. Panic starts to set in. We reach for "Camp and a Caravan" and yay! Kandirri Game Lodge appears to be an option. We ring and yay! If we hurry they'll stay open for us. Kimberley is in the Northern Cape and the lodge is just outside Petrusberg in the Free State, a journey of about 85 kms.

Overnighted at: Kandirri Game Lodge
Located: Near Petrusberg on the N8 to Bloemfontein.
How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” 
Road Access: Good.
Amenities: Nice, Africa-themed ablutions with everything you need, braais, flat shady sites with those giant thorns that love spearing jandals, lions.
Cost: NZD29 / ZAR290 for two adults

Our experience
A fitting, final night to an epic roadtrip. As if to make up for not seeing lions in the Karoo National Park, or the Addo Elephant Park for that matter, we're now camped right next to a pride of them. There's a strong-looking, high, electrified fence between us and them, even so, I feel very vulnerable. We're the only campers here tonight and if one of them should find a way out, I don't fancy our chances. To add to the tension, they seem fascinated by us. Although they have a huge enclosure to cavort in, they all line up as close as they can get and settle down to watch us for the night. Eeep!

Soundtrack: Lions roaring so close that your heart literally vibrates in your chest, a parrot that says "hello".

Highlight: Camping within metres of a pride of lions.

Lowlight: Camping within metres of a pride of lions.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• A lion's roar is a formidable thing.

<< Day 14  |  Day 16 >>     Back to intro

On the Road
Travelling on a Sunday in this part of the world means that nothing is open. Ceres, Prince Albert's Hamlet, Worcester, Beaufort West, all out breakfasting or gone to church. Some spectacular mountain moments, but nothing that holds our attention or makes us want to linger.

Karoo National Park
We didn't plan to visit the Karoo National Park, but as we were travelling right passed it, we couldn't resist. It feels quite different to other wildlife parks we've stayed at. Traditional Cape-styled chalets sit perfectly at home in the semi desert landscape that straddles both the Upper and Lower Karoo. It's stunning in a big, lonely, empty kind of way and to be honest, it's mostly empty of animals too. We spotted a few ostriches, red hartebeest, distant zebras and the occasional kudu, a black backed jackal and a tortoise, but not much else on our long, dusty drive. At sunset, when it had cooled, we followed a nature walk between the campground and the restaurant complex, immersing ourselves in Karoo-ness and trying not to get lost.

Overnighted at: Karoo National Park
Located: Near Beaufort West.
How we found it: Signposted on the road.
Road Access: A mix of both tar-sealed and gravel roads, mostly our little car coped with the latter.
Amenities: The usual national park facilities, good ablutions, camp kitchen, braais, restaurant, gift shop.
Cost: NZD62.80 / ZAR6,280 for two adults (inc conservation fees)

Our experience
There weren't many other campers and we had almost too much choice when we came to pitch our tent. After three attempts we finally settled on a site away from yelling families that appeared to offer the most protection from the wind. A little mouse and some guinea fowl kept us company, while the Cape Karoo architecture of the ablutions added a sense of place to comfortable functionality.

Soundtrack: The wind whining through the vegetation and buffeting our tent.

Highlight: Unexpectedly finding ourselves in a national game park we didn't even know existed.

Lowlight: The wind.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• I'm eternally grateful to whoever invented blow-up camp mattresses. Without one I think I'd have cracked my hip bones - concrete would have been softer to sleep on.
• We really, really should have invested in a wild card. This is another of those times when where we would have saved on conservation fees.

<< Day 13  |  Day 15 >>     Back to intro

Leaving Cape Town - Kirstenbosch National Botanic Garden
Our last experience in Cape Town is also our best. We caught up with friends in Kirstenbosch Gardens on the eastern slopes of Table Mountain. Beautiful, lush and peaceful, it's a haven from the hot, frenetic city. The winter rains didn't come this year and Capetonians are stressing about drought and dwindling water supplies, but here you'd never know. A pocket of green in a parched city.

On the Road
We're heading back to Johannesburg in a more direct route than we came, even so, we'll be travelling over 1,400 kms. Two whatarethechances moments: another of those Kiwi-meets-South Africa synchronicities when we find ourselves following a bakkie with an All Black sticker on the rear window. And in a vast, empty landscape where we haven't seen another vehicle for miles, we witness a van crossing over a bridge as a train hurtles under it. Surreal.

Overnighted at: Fynbos Guest Farm & Animal Sanctuary
Located: 2 kms from Wolseley.
How we found it: Signposted on the road.
Road Access: Just off the R46 on Boontjiesrivier Road, gravel but no problem in our little car.
Amenities: Boutique-style camping with bush-screened, generous-sized sites, flat and shady.
Cost: NZD28 / ZAR280  for two adults

Our experience
The quirkiness of Ashby Manor manifested in a campsite. We followed the road signs on a whim and what a reward! Turns out this is also an animal sanctuary and after we pitched our tent we wandered around, meeting the inhabitants and exploring the gardens. Back at our private site shaded by pines, we're enjoying mountain views and the stone-built braai, when a peacock comes visiting. This is almost glamping, even the ablutions look like one of the holiday cottages on the property (although I still wouldn't camp right on top of it - why do people do that?)

Soundtrack: Doves cooing, peacocks mewing, mossies tweeting, roosters crowing, pot bellied pigs grunting, distant traffic on the main road, the occasional train.

Highlight: The joy of being back in a tent and delight of finding ourselves neighboured by pot-bellied pigs, lamas and springboks.

Lowlight: None.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• Follow the signs. You may not always end up where you thought you were going, but you will always end up where you're meant to be.

Fynbos Guest Farm & Animal Sanctuary
Some zen moments as we kept coming across signs attached to fence poles and trees, with messages that seem specially written for roadtrippers.

<< Day 12 |  Day 14 >>     Back to intro

On the Road
Cape Town
Busy. Busy. Busy. Queues for everything. Queued for over an hour trying to get through roadworks to Fish Hoek, gave up and went back the way we came. Tried to go up Table Mountain, managed to find a parking spot miles away but despaired when we saw the length of the queue for the cable car. Bucket list fail.
The promising-sounding Chapmans Peak Caravan Park was booked out (we should have guessed) by a campervan convention, and anyway, it didn't look great. Kommertjie was too windy to pitch a tent. Negotiating holiday traffic in the sweltering heat made it impossible to appreciate the scenic side of Cape Town. As soon as we were able, we checked back into the guest house. On the rooftop balcony we immersed ourselves in sweeping Fresnaye 'burb views from Signal Hill to the Atlantic Seaboard. Much more chilled.

Overnighted at: Ashby Manor Guest House
Located: Fresnaye, Cape Town
How we found it: Booking.com
Road Access: Tar-sealed and good.
Accommodation: Bedroom with ensuite, tea & coffee making facilities, satellite TV, free wifi, onsite parking, complimentary breakfast.
Cost: NZD85 / ZAR850  for two adults

Our experience
We checked out at 10.00am, intending to make a real bed a one night stand. When it became apparent that camping in Cape Town city surrounds wasn't going to be an option, we began another booking.com search. Ashby Manor, which appeared to be fully booked in the morning, suddenly had rooms available. So we went back. As with everything else about Cape Town, the novelty had worn off and it wasn't quite as cool. We got a dungeon of a room in the bowels of the building, very small with no natural light. The decor was fabulous though - a citron and turquoise colour palette, wall art for Africa and the cushions didn't disappoint.

Soundtrack: Other guests navigating the creaking floors and stairs. The flushing of the staff loo right next door. Definitely ghosts.

Highlight: The delicious, designery, complimentary breakfast.
Lowlight: The dark, squishy room with a TV that didn't work.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• Second time around the cracks start to show. Best to avoid retracing your steps, but if you have to, manage your expectations.

<< Day 11  |  Day 13 >>      Back to intro

On the Road
Hermanus to Cape Town
We've never driven this route before and we've been told it's stunning. It is, in a wind-blasting, jaw-dropping sort of a way. These mountains are uniquely Cape Town, we couldn't be anywhere else in the country - or the world. Things we note with interest: pohutakawa trees (New Zealand's native red flower 'Christmas tree') appear to do as well in this climate as proteas, agapanthus and arums do in NZ's North Island, and even a spectacular backdrop can't take the edge off the Cape Flats.

Overnighted at: Ashby Manor Guest House
Located: Fresnaye, Cape Town
How we found it: Booking.com
Road Access: Tar-sealed and good, we're in the Big Smoke.
Accommodation: Bedroom with ensuite, tea & coffee making facilities, satellite TV, free wifi, onsite parking, complimentary breakfast.
Cost: NZD85 / ZAR850 for two adults

Our experience
We swapped the bush for the 'burbs and our tent for a heritage building, complete with original creaking wooden floors. On multiple levels giving new meaning to the phrase 'nooks and crannies' with no two rooms decorated the same. We got lost continuously and found new places at every turn. Smothered in sumptuous cushions and wall art and quirky stuff - eclectic would be one way of describing it. Did I mention the cushions? So many cushions. Lots of fun.

Soundtrack: Other guests navigating the creaking floors and stairs. Possibly ghosts?

Highlight: The surprising decor and proximity to the sea. Just 600 metres from Sea Point Swimming Pavilion, the beach and the icy Atlantic - as well as shopping malls, bars and restaurants.
Lowlight: There wasn't one. The novelty and eccentric-ness of the place blinded us to any faults.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• How comfortable a king size bed and crisp sheets can feel. Ten days in a tent gives you a new appreciation of the conveniences that come with city living.

<< Day 10  |  Day 12 >>     Back to intro

On the Road
The direct route between McGregor and Hermanus is only 145 kms. We did more than double that, backtracking to Swellendam (encountering a police check on the outskirts) then detouring to Cape Agulhas via Bredesdorp. Somewhere near Napier we clocked 3000 kms. Pockets of green hills and iconic Cape Dutch architecture sign that we're leaving the desert and approaching the last Big City at the bottom of the African continent.

End of the Road
Cape Agulhas
Now we really have reached the end of the road and the edge of the world. The southernmost tip of Africa is an unexpectedly docile affair. It's notorious for the wild, stormy meeting of the mighty oceans, but today you'd never know it. Just a soft breeze cooling a sunshiney day. Not sure whether to be relived or disappointed. A bucket list tick.

Overnighted at: Onrus Caravan Park
Located: Near Hermanus.
How we found it: Signposted on the road.
Road Access: Tar-sealed and good. This is almost the 'burbs.
Amenities: Extensive municipal park with a choice of sand and grassy sites, spacious and shady. Impressive large, clean ablutions with security key, entire park fenced, South Africa style.
Cost: NZD28 / ZAR280  for two adults

Our experience
A good enough one. Enough space for privacy, enough fellow campers scattered around to feel safe and enough sand to know that we're at beach. We slept well.

Soundtrack: Sound of the surf breaking on rocks, very distant campers ya-hooing, groups of workmen starting campground maintenance at 9.00 am.

Highlight: The freedom of being in a big cage, ie. sleeping easy.
Lowlight: The limitations of being in a big cage, ie. looking at the sunset from behind razor wire fencing, unable to walk on the beach and immerse yourself in it.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• The pros and cons of people and razor wire. When things start to get urban, there's a trade off between safety and freedom.
  

<< Day 9  |  Day 11 >>     Back to intro

On the Road
Mostly hot, dusty desert. Encountered some roadworks, fortunately on a scenic part of the road. We don't mind the inconvenience. We're not in any hurry, and the fact that maintenance is being carried out is heartening.

Pit Stops
Three actually, between here and there. All good.
Oudtshoorn - Coffee Bean Cafe
The excellent flat white, friendly owner and wifi access went a long way to improving our mood.
Calitzdorp - Roses Cafe
Tea and melktert in a dappled shade garden in the middle of the desert. What a treat! You don't get more Saf-African than this. Who needs wifi anyway?
Barrydale - Sunshine Cafe
Situated in The Hub. Wifi back on the menu along with bakbrood topped with cheese, pesto and Dutch yogurt. Yum.

End of the Road
McGregor
Well, not the end of the road exactly, but the end of our travels for the day. Love McGregor. Authentic, not too trendied for tourism. I'm tempted to say that it's in the middle of nowhere - which it is - but this could only be Africa and only be the Klein Karoo. There's a strong sense of place in this nowhere. I could almost live here.

Overnighted at: Night Sky Caravan Farm
Located: On a wine farm somewhere between McGregor and Bonnievale in the Breede River Valley.
How we found it: With “Camp and Caravan” and some difficulty.
Road Access: Gravelly but ok.
Amenities: Un-demarcated, flat, grassy sites suitable for tents and caravans on the banks of a dam; ablutions basic but clean with hot water showers, power outlets (bring an extension cord), taps although the water unsuitable for drinking, braai facilities.
Cost: Free! A special deal for us because we arrived late and unexpectedly and the host hadn't time to specially clean the ablutions (which were spotless).

Our experience
The universe decided to say sorry for the horrible night before. Things couldn't have been more different. We found ourselves the only campers in a peaceful wine farm setting, free to choose our spot next to a pretty dam. After a long day driving through desert, water is a wonderful thing. Our hostess was gracious and welcoming, even though she was dressed up and on her way out, which is why she declined payment (see 'Cost' story above).

Soundtrack: Bird calls and frogs.

Highlight: The glorious night sky.
Lowlight: There wasn't one.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• Things always get better.

<< Day 8  |  Day 10 >>     Back to intro

Prince Albert - around the village
It's one of those trendy, reinvented-for-tourism, Karoo towns with lots to do and see. Pop into the info centre (although you might want to double-check any directions given), browse little art galleries and gift stores and do the historical ox-wagon, old churches thing. Mostly we enjoyed the architecture and the back streets where the village meets the Karoo - the visual aspect of it. We couldn't help but notice the contrast between these neatly restored houses with well swept yards and the "location" just outside of town. 

Pit Stops
Prince Albert - The Lazy Lizard
Lots of spaces here to enjoy a morning coffee: a shady garden, an eclectically furnished inside area and a stoep from which to watch the world go by. Free wifi is an additional bonus.

Detour
An unplanned detour as a result of misunderstanding the directions provided by the lady at Prince Albert Info Centre meant we were about 50 kms down the road at Prins Albertweg, before we realised we were headed in completely the wrong direction. Backtracking through some of the driest, hottest, emptiest Karoo landscape you're likely to find caused some grumpiness.

On the Road
Finally on the right road, the low road through the Swartberg mountains, headed back towards Oudtshoorn. Tar sealed and less tummy-clutching than the pass of the day before, but a stunning ride nonetheless. Came across several enticing picnic stops on the way.

Cango Caves
The caves were the reason why we backtracked, and the resulting bucket list place meets the anti-tourist experience was not a good one. I was amazed, appalled, amused and appalled again. Saddened to see such a precious natural phenomenon irrevocably damaged and disrespected by tourism. Yes, it's cheap (ZAR100 / NZD10 entry), enchantingly beautiful and extensive; and yes, at times it was very funny (albeit unintentionally) thanks to the bizarre commentary and the way the large group of visitors were divided into nationalities (Germans, Israelis and English-speaking Indians). But no, if like me you have anti tourist tendencies, don't go. A bucket list tick and fail.

Overnighted at: Kleinplas
Located: The outskirts of Oudtshoorn.
How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” 
Road Access: Good.
Amenities: Spacious, flat, shaded sites with power and water, resort-style facililties with large ablutions and swimming pool.
Cost: NZD18 / ZAR180  for two adults

Our experience
We were unlucky. I'm guessing that usually camping here would be fine. The shaded, level sites are nice enough and this is part of a large resort with all the associated amenities. Unfortunately our stay coincided with a badly behaved and managed Nomads Tour group that partied up a storm until the early hours of the morning. They proceeded to trash the toilets while they were at it, making it a very unpleasant experience for the other campers. To add insult to injury, at check out the staff gave us excuses rather than apologies, and Kleinplas earned my first-ever one star "terrible" TripAdvisor review.

Soundtrack: Traffic. A busy main road runs alongside the resort and if we weren't already awake at 2.00am (thanks to drunken foreign tourists), we would have been after some crazy person drove the length of the resort, hand on hooter.

Highlight: There wasn't one.
Lowlight: Noisy night and unusable ablutions the next morning.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• Don't backtrack on a road trip. If things don't work out as planned - if timings are wrong and places don't feel right - move on. The universe knows best.
• If you find yourself overnighting in the vicinity of a Nomads Tour Group, relocate.
• Travel with earplugs. 

<< Day 7  |  Day 9 >>     Back to intro

Pit Stops
Sedgefield 
This coffee stop had it all. The forever beach in the cool of the morning was a delight, even though there were no whales to be seen. Over the road from the parking area, Africa Vibe provided good coffee, free wifi and friendly locals. A great start to a great day.

On the Road
​The Garden Route delivered on its reputation with a wonderfully scenic drive on a stunning blue-sky day. The Wilderness was a particular standout, incredibly beautiful despite bustling with holidaymakers. At George we headed inland through the Outeniqua Pass towards Oudtshoorn and in no time at all swapped lush greens for Karoo browns, amazed at how quickly the landscape and climate changes.

Short-cuts
The Swartberg Pass
We arrived at the Cango Caves too late to join the last tour of the day. Deciding we really didn't feel like backtracking to Oudtshoorn, we thought we would try for Prins Albert - which on the map didn't look too far if we travelled over the Swartberg Pass. The info lady assured us that the road, although gravel, was good. By the time we began to doubt the wisdom of our choice we had passed the point of no return. A spectacular, and at times, terrifying drive. If we had known what we were in for I'm not sure we would have had the courage to do it. So glad we did. 

Overnighted at: Olienhof Camp Site
Located: On an olive farm on the outskirts of Prince Albert.
How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” 
Road Access: Some dirt roads.
Amenities: Cape Dutch cottage-style bathroom, roomy and decorated like a home rather than a camp ablution; braais and power on site.
​Cost: NZD16 / ZAR160  for two adults

Our experience
The camping area at Olienhof farm is small with only 5 to 6 sites. An elderly couple was there already set up in a large, multi-roomed tent and a younger couple arrived after us in a 4 x 4 safari camper with a fold-out tent on the roof. Although an intimate space, we still had privacy and we placed our tent for shade and a view of the olive grove. The owners were very friendly and helpful, it felt like a farm experience, quite different to a conventional campground. 

Soundtrack: Birds, five hungry cats, sporadic hammering, tractors driving around, digging, mowing etc in the morning (its a working farm).
​
Highlight: Finding this haven at the end of an incredibly hot day (40+ degrees), stopping off at the olive factory the following morning and buying tins of olive oil produced on the farm as gifts.
Lowlight: Huge mosquitoes hanging out in the shower curtains.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• Ring the campsite in advance. We would never have found it without directions. Also we arrived around 6pm on a Sunday evening and the owners wouldn’t have been there to meet us if they weren’t aware we were coming.

<< Day 6  |  Day 8 >>     Back to intro

Pit Stops
Morning Coffee - Bloukrans Bridge
Yesterday's slow reveal continued this morning when, on a whim, we went to see where the traffic that kept driving passed the Bloukrans campsite was headed. We were amazed to discover a bustling hub of cafes, tourists, souvenir sellers and bungee jumpers milling around in various states of fear and elation. We drank our morning coffee overlooking the Bloukrans Bridge and the world’s highest bungee jump, in the company of Somangaye-tnh from Empangeni. At five years old he was too young to jump himself and had to be content with borrowing our binoculars to watch his parents launch themselves into the abyss. A most surprising start to the day. 

Lunch - Leisure Isle, Knysna
A nostalgia trip for me. Leisure Isle in Knysna where my grandfather lived many, many years ago. Picnicked at the Steenbok Nature Reserve. 

Afternoon Coffee - Riverside Bar, Restaurant & Padstal
We drove into Buffalo Bay, which although interesting, was too exposed and windy for camping. On the way back to the N1 we stopped off for a coffee at the Riverside Bar and Restaurant, very enticing on a sparkling, sunshiney afternoon. Stocked up on a few treats at the padstal across the road.

On the road
Battled traffic into Plettenberg Bay, searching for the holiday destination of my childhood but found only glimpses. 

Overnighted at: Lake Pleasant Resort 
Located: Near Sedgefield.
How we found it: “Camp and Caravan”
Road Access: Good.
Amenities: Excellent. Large campsites designed for privacy; extensive, homely ablutions including baths, showers and a multitude of mirrors; restaurant (no wifi), small shop.
Cost: NZD22 /ZAR220 for two adults

Our experience
After being soaked with dew the night before, we decided to rig a tarpaulin over the tent. Totally unnecessarily, as it turned out, as it was dry and much warmer and we slept well. Completely different demographic to where we had just been: well-heeled, mostly older patrons with caravans and boats in tow. 

Soundtrack: Distant traffic, birds, onsite Sunday morning church service conducted in Afrikaans by a group of campers using a feisty sound system, accompanied by much hymn singing.

Highlight: The sheltered, nature reserve setting and glorious weather. 
Lowlight: Being chased by dogs belonging to fellow campers who were well aware of what was happening but refused to restrain them - even though we hadn’t ventured anywhere near their campsite; afore mentioned church service. 

Lessons Learnt:

• While it may not work in other countries, yelling “Voetsak!” at the top of your voice actually does seem to deter marauding dogs.

<< Day 5  |  Day 7 >>    Back to intro

On the Road
A changing landscape. Saw plenty of animals on our trip through the Addo Elephant Park, as well as our first glimpses of the sea. Port Elizabeth was an overwhelming experience after a couple of days in the bush and Jeffries Bay an underwhelming one, nothing like Keith remembered. The garden route with its lush green mountains a stark contrast to fynbos and the Karoo.

Overnighted at: Bloukrans Caravan Park
Located: Tsitsikamma area on the Garden Route.
How we found it: Sign on the side of N2 Highway.
Road Access: Good.
Amenities: Campsites with power and braais; huge, high ceilinged ablutions, great showers, free condoms in both male and female bathrooms.
Cost: NZD14 / ZAR140 for two adults

 Our experience
“Slow reveal” best describes this experience. We didn’t know anything about where we were staying. When we first arrived the camp ground was deserted and we felt a little uneasy. Then suddenly it was full of Xhosian youth laughing and playing as they carried in mattresses and pitched tents. The condoms in the ablutions, coupled with a receipt for camp fees from the Tisitikamma Forest Village Trust, helped us to figure out it was some sort of community project. It’s a spacious, well-manicured caravan park with large, level sites, and sharing it with a group of youth was a pleasure rather than an invasion.

Soundtrack: Traffic. Youth group playing until it got dark, then absolute silence. Boot camp at dawn, supervisor yelling instructions (Rise and Shine! Get running!) Singing.

Highlight: Not being the ones who had to get up and get running! Great to support a local community tourism initiative.
Lowlight: A really COLD night with heavy dewfall. Wore all our warm stuff all at once and still shivered.

Lessons Learnt:

• Take weekends into account. We lost track of the days and didn’t realise it was Friday. Tried to book into the Tsitsikamma (Garden Route) National Park at the same time as a campervan convention and gave up. The youth group at Bloukrans was also a weekend thing, fortunately a happy experience.
• Bring more blankets.

<< Day 4  |  Day 6 >>    Back to intro

On the road
It wasn’t a conscious decision to visit the Addo Elephant Park, the need for coffee drove us to it. Unable to boil water at Die Kaie we went in search of Keith’s morning fix, detouring through Riebeeck East and Alicedale, neither of which had a coffee shop. We guessed we would find a restaurant in the park, and once there we couldn’t resist staying the night.

Addo Elephant Park
There are both tarred and sand roads in the Addo Elephant Park, and our little car coped fine with the latter. We saw kudu, warthogs and tortoises with uncanny regularity, black backed jackals and of course, elephants. Fascinated by the fynbos, sometimes so dense it’s a wonder animals manage to make their way through it. Our game park experiences usually centre around the Transvaal bushveld, this vegetation is quite different. 

Overnighted at: Addo Restcamp
Located: Addo Elephant Park
How we found it: AA Map of South Africa and SANParks website.
Road Access: Good.
Amenities: Usual National Parks stuff: good ablutions, camp kitchen, powered campsite with braai, bench and table; restaurant (with wifi), shop.
Cost: NZD80 / ZAR800 for two adults (including conservation fees for international tourists)

Our experience
Loved being in the bush again. When we weren’t driving around looking for animals, we watched them from the comfort of our newly acquired camp chairs. Addo Restcamp overlooks a waterhole and we saw kudu, warthogs, tortoises and elephants at various times during the day. 

Evening soundtrack: Hyhenas, elephants, annoying tour group yammering into the night.

Highlight: Sundowners in the bush while watching a family of elephants wandering along the ridge.
Lowlight: Annoying tour group yammering into the night, strong winds buffeting the tent.
​
Lessons Learnt:

• It was really good to have a blow up mattress. The rock-hard, gravel covered ground would have made for an uncomfortable night.
• Invest in a wild card. Membership gives you unlimited entry to 80+ National Parks, Reserves and Resorts around South Africa. If we’d bought one we’d have saved heaps in conservation fees. 

<< Day 3  |  Day 5 >>     Back to intro

Pit Stops
Hanover is almost exactly halfway between Johannesburg and Cape Town on the N1. We stopped off at the Hanover Hotel for a cup of coffee and some wifi, both surprisingly good given the remoteness of the location. It’s one of those tiny Karoo towns with the potential to become trendy but has yet to be discovered. We went looking for a family member’s piece of land, our only clue being that it had goats on it. Despite the smallness of the place, we couldn’t find it.

On the Road
An erratic, zig-zaggy sort of a day. Made up for not finding goats in Hanover by coming across herds in main street of Middelburg (where we stopped to pick up supplies and found camping chairs). We encountered roadworks with lengthy stop-and-go sojourns between Hanover and Middelburg, potholes and roadworks between Graaf-Reniet and Somerset East.

Detours
Nieu-Bethesda
This was the bucket-list place for me and while I wasn’t disappointed, I didn’t feel as though I wanted to overnight there. It was very quiet, obviously not tourist season. Unseasonably too, we seemed to have brought rain with us which blew through the town at one point, dampening the dust. We stopped at Village Inn and had the best scone ever, I think it was baked while we waited. It’s worth noting that you can now get to Nieu-Bethesda from the N9 on a newly tarred road, which we only discovered on our way out. We travelled in on a dirt road, scenic and accessible, but uncomfortable at times in our little car. 

Overnighted at: Die Kaie
Located: On a farm outside Somerset East.
How we found it: “Camp and Caravan” and by ringing the owners. No road signage and the coordinates given in the book are inaccurate.
Directions: Turn onto the R335 just outside Somerset East. Drive passed the graveyard and an airfield, the farm gate is on the left hand side.
Road Access: Bumpy dirt road.
Amenities: Ablutions good albeit a little sooty from a recent fire in the thatch roof, attractive restaurant/bar area overlooking the Small Fish River.
Cost: NZD16 / ZAR160 for two adults 

Our experience
It was late and we were starting to panic by the time we finally found the campsite. There was nobody around and we checked in by remote control, the owner talking us through various procedures on the phone (ie. camp anywhere, use only the ladies ablutions because of the fire, leave payment in the guestbook, the dog’s name is Bubbles…) Our spirits rose when we saw how pretty it was, an oasis of verdant bush on the banks of a little river. What it lacked in humans it more than made up for with animals. There was an aviary with exotic talking parrots and a family of guinea fowls roosting on top if it, bunnies hopping around, a super-friendly dog, sheep in the distance (it’s a sheep farm) and buck coming down to the river for their evening drink. A bizarre experience - in a good way. It felt like we’d fallen into a storybook.

Evening soundtrack: frogs, crickets, night birds, things plopping in water, occasional sheep baa-ing, caged macaw screeching “hello”, Bubbles barking.

Highlight: So many: the relief at finding a place to stay, the oh-so-pretty location, the oddness of the whole experience, Bubbles the dog… most magical of all, the fireflies that danced around our tent when it got dark.
Lowlight: The tent flapping all night. No access to electricity (although there was some, we just couldn’t turn it on) which meant no morning coffee.

Lessons Learnt:

• “Camp and Caravan”, while useful, has it’s limitations.
• Don’t leave it so late to find a campsite.
• The design of our tent is not conducive to windy conditions.

<< Day 2  |  Day 4 >>     Back to intro

On the Road
A long distance travel day that found us still 1000kms from Cape Town at the end of it. The road from Vredeport through Kroonstad and beyond is under construction, with bumpy dirt road detours, stop and go sections and speed restrictions. Once on the N1 the travelling is easier.

Pit Stops
​Plum Tree Cafe - main street of Parys
Parys has trendied up, one of those small towns in the middle of nowhere that has reinvented itself as a tourist destination. It’s vintage in an Afrikaans/Africa sort of a way, lots of antiques, broekie lace and homemade rusks. The mediocre morning coffee (ugly bubbles in the foam of my cappuccino) was rescued by the highly original presentation and served with the December 1974 Edition 51 of Huisgenoot magazine, complete with Anneline Kriel on the cover. Worth stopping for that alone.

Overnighted at: Forever Resort 
Located: Gariep Dam
How we found it: We camped at the dam thirty something years ago, although it wasn’t owned by Forever Resorts then. “Camp & Caravan” confirmed that it was still operating.
Road access: Good.
Amenities: Awesome. Individual ablutions per campsite (kitchen, toilet, bath), braais and power. Restaurant at the resort, shops and a petrol station nearby. 
Cost: NZD22 / ZAR220 for two adults (pensioner’s discount!)

Our experience
It felt strangely familiar - not much has changed in the camping area since we came through with our windsurfers en route to Hogsback and East London more than three decades ago. Slightly surreal to see boat masts and an expanse of muddy-coloured water in what is basically the Karoo. Much warmer and dryer than our night at the Vaal and we had no security worries. Slept well.

Soundtrack: Birds, occasional helicopters and distant road traffic.

Highlight: Our own private, lockable kitchen and ensuite.
Lowlight: There wasn't one.

Lessons Learnt: 

• Over 60’s qualify for a pensioner discount at Forever Resorts. Conflicted about this fact. Happy about the discount, not so keen on the being-over-sixty thing.
• Discovered Keith was right, we really do need some kind of seating. Very uncomfortable sitting on hard ground whilst eating breakfast. Honestly believe this would be an issue at any age.

<< Day 1  |  Day 3 >>     Back to intro

On the Road
Trying to find the campsite involved crossing the Vaal River several times and approaching Parys from multiple directions. Just as we were in danger of losing our sense of humour we spotted this man and his dog in the traffic.

 
Overnighted at: Woelwaters 
Located: 35kms outside of Parys on the Vaal River.
How we found it: “Camp & Caravan” with a little help from the Parys Info Centre.
Road access: Ok. Tar sealed, some potholes.
Amenities: Ablutions clean enough (OTT crochet curtains a standout feature), braais and power on site.
Cost: NZD18 / ZAR180 for two adults