On the Road Mostly hot, dusty desert. Encountered some roadworks, fortunately on a scenic part of the road. We don't mind the inconvenience. We're not in any hurry, and the fact that maintenance is being carried out is heartening. Pit Stops Three actually, between here and there. All good. Oudtshoorn - Coffee Bean Cafe The excellent flat white, friendly owner and wifi access went a long way to improving our mood. Calitzdorp - Roses Cafe Tea and melktert in a dappled shade garden in the middle of the desert. What a treat! You don't get more Saf-African than this. Who needs wifi anyway? Barrydale - Sunshine Cafe Situated in The Hub. Wifi back on the menu along with bakbrood topped with cheese, pesto and Dutch yogurt. Yum. Top left: Coffee Bean Cafe, Oudtshoorn Bottom left: Sunshine Cafe, Barryvale Top & Bottom right: Roses Cafe, Calitzdorp End of the Road McGregor Well, not the end of the road exactly, but the end of our travels for the day. Love McGregor. Authentic, not too trendied for tourism. I'm tempted to say that it's in the middle of nowhere - which it is - but this could only be Africa and only be the Klein Karoo. There's a strong sense of place in this nowhere. I could almost live here. Overnighted at: Night Sky Caravan Farm Located: On a wine farm somewhere between McGregor and Bonnievale in the Breede River Valley. How we found it: With “Camp and Caravan” and some difficulty. Road Access: Gravelly but ok. Amenities: Un-demarcated, flat, grassy sites suitable for tents and caravans on the banks of a dam; ablutions basic but clean with hot water showers, power outlets (bring an extension cord), taps although the water unsuitable for drinking, braai facilities. Cost: Free! A special deal for us because we arrived late and unexpectedly and the host hadn't time to specially clean the ablutions (which were spotless). Our experience The universe decided to say sorry for the horrible night before. Things couldn't have been more different. We found ourselves the only campers in a peaceful wine farm setting, free to choose our spot next to a pretty dam. After a long day driving through desert, water is a wonderful thing. Our hostess was gracious and welcoming, even though she was dressed up and on her way out, which is why she declined payment (see 'Cost' story above). Soundtrack: Bird calls and frogs. Highlight: The glorious night sky. Lowlight: There wasn't one. Lessons Learnt:
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